Har ki Doon Trek Log

Less than a week was left of year 2015 and holidays were lined up. In search of a winter trek, I had Kauri pass and Har ki doon in my mind. A month ago Kiran and I had just been to to Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers. Dalima was also willing to join us in our next trek. She needed an esacape from busy city life. Har ki doon is well known most one of most popular winter treks in Uttarkashi region. During same time YHAI had been taking many batches for Kedarkantha trek. Trek to Kedarkantha also stars from Sankri, Uttarakhand.

We started on Saturday night, 26 Dec for Dehradun. We couldn't find any any conveyance for Sankri from there so we moved to Rishikesh. We took a bus around 5 AM for Sankri. It was long ride of around 11 hours. Sun was about to set when we reached Sankri. It is a small and quiet place and accommodations were already full of trekkers in this season. After some search we were able to find a place to stay. Nearby, there was a small shop where we had dinner and chit chat with other trekker who were staying nearby. After some last time purchase, we also arranged for a jeep to Taluka from where we were to start our trek.

It was around 8 AM, when we reached Taluka. It was a cold morning. We started off after some light breakfast. Most of the trails goes along the river Rupin. The gentle sound of river all along the first day trek is very comforting and refreshing. The trail is also very beautiful. River is very approachable from most of the first day trail.





It was around 4 PM when we reached Osla village. It was a steep climb after crossing the bridge. The village was very picturesque. From the river bed it seems as if people have made nests in the mountains. All houses of same color and made of wood which mixes with background.

We haven't had anything to eat till now. Dalima's knee was giving her a tough time. Children of the village flocked around us asking different questions. I got some maggi and biscuits from a shop in the village. the local people seemed very helpful and nice. A man from village offered to prepare it for us while we talked to the children. There aren't many men in the village. Those with whom I talked, were very keen on having us as their guest. We had tents but we did need food. We decided to have dinner with the old man who prepared maggi for us and pitched our tent outside his home. There was another family insisting to stay in their home. It was cold out there and Dalima stayed with them. It was very peculiar to see how these houses are made of wood and housed a hearth made of mud in the room. Just above the hearth roof open to make room for smoke. There is a place to store wood and hay below the house. Dalima's knee problem had aggravated and she decided to take some rest next day. The house owner was happy to have her as guest. Children were very curious excited around her and constantly chatting.  We enquired about the logistics which we need to take and arrangements for food during the rest of the trek. We promised Dalima to be back as soon as we can.


On tuesday, We started off early in the morning and wrapping up our tents. Crossing Kalkatiyadhar campsite, we reached Har ki doon in afternoon.

It was a sunny day and there weren't much trees on the trail. The trail just before the Har ki doon was enchanting and covered with snow with beautiful little streams joining Tons river and trees around. Har ki doon valley is a big amphitheatre which lies in the valley of majestic Swargarohini peak. It is an inexplicable experience to see such a close view of Swargarohini peak. This trail is believed to be taken by Pandavas who attempted to go to heaven with their bodies. Kiran had some phaphda which we had with pickles. We took water and essential stuff in our daypack and went exploring towards Juandhar glacier in the valley. I couldn't take my eyes off from the Swargarohini peak and was immersed in the thoughts of how Pandavas who attempted to climb the peak in Mahabharata era. The first ascent of Swargarohini was done by team of NIM(Nehru Institute Of Mountaineering) instructors in 1990, Uttarkashi from where I once did my AMC.

We walked inside the valley until sun started to set.

We had to come back to pitch our tent to make arrangements of dinner and pitch our tents. We pitched our tents beside the forest rest house there and requested for dinner to the caretaker of the rest house. We watched the setting sun sitting on the big boulder near campsite. It was very cold and windy in the night. We spent most of the time in the kitchen before going to sleep. We talked about what lies further on the trail and treks in the area. I promised myself to cross the Borasu pass next time which lies further on the trail and take a diversion to Ruinsaira tal which is around 14 km from Osla village.

It was already 7 when we woke up next morning. We wrapped our tents and left at once after having tea. We started our retreat around 8. It was an easy descent and we walked on scout's pace. Dalima was eagerly waiting for us in the village where we had lunch around 11. After paying all the dues, we left for Taluka around 12. It was not long when we reached Taluka.

We still had two spare days left and we could've attempted for Kedarkantha trek as well. New year parties with friends in Delhi are also cool; we thought and left for Delhi next morning.

Here is the link to our shared album. 

Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib Trek Log

Having completed a quick trek to Roopkund in Dussehara vacations, I hoped to do another in Deepawali. I had no plans of going home from Noida in vacations. Kiran was also in Gurgaon itself. This time if we took one day leave from office, we could have 5 days to do something. I proposed going to Joshimath and doing some of treks among Kauri Pass(Curzon Trail), Hemkund Sahib and Valley Of flowers over there. Though Valley of flowers and Hemkund Sahib were already closed by then for the winter season. Since we were only two, we decided to minimize the expense using bus travel instead cab.

There were very few buses on the route due to Deepawali that day.  We managed our way to Joshimath by changing buses and eventually booking a cab from Karnaprayag. It was night when we arrived Joshimath. To start trekking for Valley Of Flowers & Hemkund Sahib early morning, it would have been better if we stayed in Govind ghat that night. The cab driver was asking for a lot for Govind ghat so we had to stay in Joshimath and went to Govind ghat next morning.

Trail

After asking about the route, we left Govind ghat around 8 in morning. Govind ghat is situated at the confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Lakshman Ganga. The route going through Bhyundar valley is well paved and goes through a dense forest with Bhyundar Ganga on the right side. After 3-4 hours walk we reached Bhyundar village.

Along Bhyundar village to Ghangharia

There was no one in the village except one shop and 3-4 labours working on a home. Having our lunch we enquired upon further trail ahead. The shopkeeper told us that there is absolutely no one beyond this point in Ghangharia or Hemkund Sahib and everything is closed. He also warned us about the bears and leopards in the area and gave us 2 crackers and some kerosene to light up fire in night.
After getting few chapatis packed with pickle, soon we left for Ghangharia. On our way, two dogs tagged along us after getting lured by Kiran with biscuits.

Hathi Parbat as seen from Bhyundar Village,
A trail to Kakbhushundi lake starts from here towards this mountain

Walking through the dense forest, it was past 2 P.M. when we reached Ghangharia.

This is a significant place along this trek with lots of houses along the both sides of street; but everything was closed. It gave the whole place an eerie appearance. After hiding our bags in the gallery of a rest house, we left for Valley of Flowers.

Towards Valley Of Flowers From Ghangharia,
The Pushpawati river gorge

The trek goes through the dense forest on left side and Pushpawati river gorge on the right. The Pushpawati river joins Bhuyandar Ganga near Ghangharia to form Lakshman Ganga.


The dogs chased grey langurs herds whenever they see them. Climbing our way after crossing Pushpawati river, and walking through the dense forests with some snow along the trail; we reached Valley of Flowers.

Valley of Flowers in mid November

The flora in the valley was completely dried except few green patches here and there. We roamed inside the valley enjoying the view and clicking pictures.













After some walk inside the valley, we rested near the grave of Joan Margaret Legge (1885 - 1939) who died while collecting samples here. The sun was about to set, so we turned back towards Ghangharia. It was completely dark when we reached there.











We picked some woods from the street and lit up a fire with the help of kerosene. Sitting there, the dogs occasionally barked and ran along the street. Kiran feared that something is around and tried to look towards the way these dogs ran with torch. We only had 6 chapatis to eat. I suggested to eat next morning for breakfast as we needed enough energy to climb Hemkund Sahib. Kiran agreed to it and suggested to share our chapatis with the dogs dutifully protecting us in the night. After few hours of warming ourselves with fire, we decided to get some sleep. I kept the fire burning and pitched our tents in the gallery of the rest house. Dogs kept barking and running all night.

The footsteps

After sharing our breakfast with dogs, we started for Hemkund Sahib. It is a continuous 6 km climb till the top. After 3 kms, treeline ends and the path was snowy. The bridge on the way was disassembled so we found an alternate route nearby to go further. After the bridge there are stairs and there also is an alternate way. The stairs were steep and completely covered with snow but the alternate path is longer and not so steep. There was snow everywhere. After crossing the nullah, when I started on the stairs, I noticed foot steps of some big animal which walked before us on that path. Kiran found the path slippery and decided to take the alternate route. I climbed the stairs cautiously, wondering if some bear is waiting for me above. Later, I was assured that this could not be the case as the dogs went ahead and waited for me at the end of stairs. Kiran continued negotiating the snow, while I reached the gurudwara. After few mins, Kiran reached there and meanwhile I roamed around the serene Homkund lake taking pictures with my mobile which still retained it's juice in airplane mode. With the gentle breeze, the crystal clear rippling water of the lake was making sounds. We sat there on a stone by the lake for few minutes and watched around. The dogs were lying on the snow basking in the sun. Kiran wondered if they were very tired and are sleeping.

The Homkund Lake

Around 11 AM, started trekking back for Govind ghat. It was a long way ahead and we both were hungry. We picked our bags up from Ghangharia from where we stayed last night and continued the descent. We talked about having big lunch at Bhyundar. The shopkeeper was waiting for us; when we we reached there in noon. After lunch and little rest in Bhyundar, we returned the kerosene and the crackers which we didn't use. It was necessary to reach Govind Ghat by evening, if we wanted to have dinner and stay in Joshimath. Around 6 PM, when we reached Govind Ghat it was dark. With some luck, we managed to catch a jeep coming from Badrinath.

We still had a day left after these two trek days. Kauri pass was at least 28 km one way which I didn't think could be managed in the remaining time. Next day we ended our trip after visiting Badrinath temple and stayed overnight in Joshimath.

Roopkund Trek Log

One of my friend asked me if I had any plans for Dussehara vacations. For one day leave, we were getting 4 days in our hand. He was planning for Roopkund trek as much as it can be done in two days which we would left with after taking out the travel time from Delhi. A day before, he got little sick and there were three of us for the trek. Kiran was from Bombay and Silva was from Brazil. We hadn't met before. Kiran was full of enthusiasm and wanted to complete this trek at any cost. I was supportive of this opinion and we chalked out our trek plan to make it possible. Silva had done a trek to Tungnath with Kiran and my friend Akshay few week back.

We left on Wednesday evening; the cab picked me up around 10:30 in night. After a whole night and day drive, next day we reached village Wan around 5 p.m. To make most of our lost time, we needed to cover some of trek that day. In few minutes, after arranging for our driver's accomodation; we left for the trek. We did get few advices for not leaving for trek at such time, but we went on.


Out morales were pretty boost up. Calling ourselves bad mofos; we went past the wan village down to the bridge on river Neelganga. By then it was completely dark. Holding our torches, we started to climb. Our aim was to reach Bedini around 11 in night. Even though, we were advised against it in the village, we thought that it is better to utilize this time in trek than to stay. It was around 10 p.m.; when we reached first camping site Gharoli Patal. Bedini was still 3 km. We had still enough juice left to reach Bedini that night. But after staying few mins for tea there; we decided to camp there only. It was very cold and windy.

A view from Bedini Bugyal

Next morning around 6, we left for Bhojbasa after having maggi for breakfast. We were happy that stopping at Gharoli Patal, previous night didn't cost us much time when we reached Bedini. After half an hour of admiring the beauty of vast meadows, and few clicks; we left for our next stop.

On the way to Patharnachuni

It was around 2 PM when we reached Patharnachuni where we had our lunch. Soon after, we left for our final stop, Bhojbasa. One the steep ascent to Kalu Vinayak, Silva was walking a bit slow. After few wait and move ahead; Kiran and me discussed if he could walk with Silva and I'll come back to carry the bag from Bhojbasa. I tried walking fast and reached Bojbasa early where I left the bag and rushed back towards Kalu Vinayak. Kiran and Silva were resting at Kalu Vinayak, which they had already climbed. Silva was feeling better now and didn't let me carry his bag. We came back from Kalu Vinayak together.





We all managed to reach Bhojbasa well before evening. Silva was having some headaches, I suggested him to have more tea and drink as much water as he can. We did a little walk around the campsite for acclimatization and had tea. We pitched our tents inside the forest hut. Although a lot colder, it was less windy than Bedini here.

Beyond Junargali

Next morning after having tea, we left for Roopkund around 6. We packed our tents and left our bag there in the hut. It was very cold and windy on the way. Some ice started to appear inside water bottle. After one and a half hour walk, we reached Roopkund. Silva was little behind. It was his first experince of such altitude and cold. There was some firewood left from previous fire; which I lit and warmed ourselves while waiting for Silva. Some dry sticks dry grass was around which I collected. When Silva was about to reach Roopkund; we left for Junargali. After few minutes of climb, we reached Junargali. Silva still was behind Roopkund. He would stop after few steps to catch a breath. It was windy was clear in Junargali with magnificent view of Mt. Trisul(7120m) and Nandaghunti(6309m).

Jorawar Gali Pass

A thought came to my mind for going ahead from there to Homkund. The door like structure with bell hanging by it looked very inviting. We didn't have that much time. We needed to move back as soon as we can if wanted to make it back to Wan village by night. After few minutes, Silva was in Roopkund. I asked Silva if really wanted to climb up to Junargali to which he said Yes. We waited for him there. Collecting litter there left by previous trekkers, we waited there on the stairs towards Shila Samudra.

After about an hour or so stay at Junargali, we started our way back to Bhojbasa. It was already 12 when we left there. After some tea and noodles, we left Bhojbasa around noon. There was another group of three people who was also on had similar plans as us. There also wanted to go back to Wan on that day itself. I was planning to go via Ali Bugyal; but it seemed, that it was too late for that. When we reached Pattahrnachuni in an hour or so, Silva was walking good. We decied against taking Ali Bugyal route, we needed at least 2-3 more hours than our usual. It was now sunset time when we reached Gharoli Patal. After taking a lot of shortcuts on descents; my legs were tired. I was exhausted and had very less control on my legs. It was now dark when I reached Neelganga bridge. I was out of water and thirsty till that time. I waited with other group for Kiran and Silva. After few mins they arrived. Silva had got blisters in his foot. We started our last patch of trek to Wan village. When we reached the village from Neelganga bridge, it seemed that we lost our way which we took before. After asking for directions and wasting around 2 hours, we managed to reach roadside around 9:30 p.m. where our cab driver was waiting for us.

We took little more than two trek days for this trek from Wan village to Roopkund. In retrospect, I think that if we had one more day, one day stay at Ali Bugyal would have been perfect finishing of the trek while coming back.

HMI, Darjeeling vs. NIM, Uttarkashi

This is one of those questions which comes to mind when going for a mountaineering course in India.
Having done my BMC from HMI and AMC from NIM, I got some idea about the training in these two institutes. Here is what I thought of HMI and NIM in terms of :

• Organization

Both HMI and NIM are run by Ministry of Defence, GOI in collaboration with respective state governments. So, in terms and objective and philosophy and in training programs both are same. In my personal opinion, the past principals and the present principal (Col. Ajay Kothiyal) of NIM  seem more active and devoted to the institute. NIM played major role in rescue and rehabilitation work in the time 2013 Uttarakhand disaster. This was also widely covered in media.

• Rock Climbing area

The biggest asset of NIM is that it has a vast rock climbing area in Tekhla. In this area, there are variety of rock features of varying degree of difficulty. Trainees have plenty of time to practice rock climbing techniques on these features. In HMI, there weren't much rock faces to climb. For rock climbing, it has Tenzing Rock and Gombu Rock in the outskirts of Darjeeling. They try to compensate this later in the course with the big boulders available around the base camp. So rest of the training in rock craft happens in Base camp area of HMI which is in Chaurikhang, Sikkim.

HMI's artificial wall seem definitely bigger than those in NIM and everything else is more or less same. Maybe because HMI installed these walls after NIM.

• Glacier for training of ice climbing techniques

The Rathong glacier, training area of HMI has lot more ice walls to practice than the Dokrani glacier of NIM. Both the glaciers are receding very fast and trainees need to walk to the training area everyday which takes some time and energy. Dokrani glacier of NIM, has lot of moraine covering the ice walls and around the snout of the glacier where most of the training happens there isn't much blue ice. I saw plenty of smoking blue ice in Rathong glacier. It has big fields of blue ice around the training area. Although advance courses in NIM goes to a different training area upwards in the glacier for 2 days for their advance ice craft which has sufficient ice walls and relatively cleaner ice. Overall, in terms of ice walls available on which we get to train, HMI has lot better than NIM. Maybe in future, NIM may think of to change the base camp to get better area for ice craft. It would be more appropriate for NIM, to move the base camp to the place where they have their advance base camp.

• Technical Equipments and Training

It was unanimously established among my course-mates of AMC who did their BMC from HMI that NIM provides more and advance technical equipments than HMI. In case of HMI advance techniques or use of advance equipments are mostly demonstrated by instructors but in NIM you'll get a chance to practice with/on them.

• Trek to Base Camp

It is a fact that, to reach the base camp; the trek in HMI is tougher than that in NIM. In both institutes, it takes 3 days to reach base camp. The trek in HMI goes on relatively higher altitude than NIM and are longer on everyday. Situated on higher altitude than NIM, the base camp of HMI offers more splendid view of surrounding peaks.

• Accomodation

The hostel of HMI and NIM are both well maintained and have all the required facilities. If you are pursuing basic course, you get to stay in barrack made of metal sheets and wood in HMI. It's all tent in NIM for both basic and advance courses outside the campus.

• Location of Institute

In my opinion, roaming in and around Darjeeling has better experience than Uttarkashi. So, location wise, HMI wins and it also has bigger area with a zoo in it's campus.

Advance Mountaineering Course, NIM (Nehru Institute Of Mountaineering)

After doing Basic Mountaineering Course from HMI, Darjeeling in 2009; whenever I thought of doing Advance Mountaineering Course it was always difficult to squeeze out one month time from job. After around 4 years of job when I was firm that I'll do it at any cost and it's now or never, I chose NIM, Uttarkashi. Mostly because it was giving me chance to explore different part of Himalayas and also because I'd heard that NIM has better equipments and focuses more on technical aspect of training. I applied in June 2013, but due to long queue I had to accept my enrollment in 148th AMC which was in September 2014.

NIM is considered to be one of the best mountaineering institutes in Asia which is run by Ministry Of Defense, India and has similar organizational structure as HMI, Darjeeling or JIM, Pahalgam.

I arrived Uttarkashi on 12th September 2014, a day before the date of course commencement. An institute bus was waiting at Uttarkashi bus stand in the afternoon. After some name check at temporary reception made at Bhandari Hotel, Uttarkashi , a bus full of students left for the institute. We checked ourselves in the institute hostel (Tapovan). A prep talk was scheduled that evening which introduced us about schedule, and dos and don't of the course.

The A.M.C. of 28 days in NIM is typically divided in 4 phases:

1. Rock Craft
2. Ice Craft
3. Snow Craft
4. Height Gain 

Phase 1: Rock Craft  

Day 1
On the first day of course, there was an early morning P.T. session. All 39 of us were divided in different groups aka ropes; each 5 or 6 person strong. Our rope instructor was Subhash Thakur from Himachal Pradesh. After lunch time everybody was issued with personal, technical and common equipments. Two climbing ropes were also issued per rope which we the rope members will take turns to carry for the remainder of the course. Later that day, there was only theory classes on expedition planning and first aid in auditorium. We're told that we need make a file for expedition planning and submit it at the end of the course. One of the aim of the course is to make leaders in mountaineering so planning an expedition is something everybody should be aware of. Each ropes were given a peak for which they were to plan an expedition and prepare a report. Some of the information e.g. rate list of equipments etc were provided by instructors to each rope and information about the peak is supposed to be gathered from books in NIM library.

Day 2
This day, we went for a hill walk on a hill nearby with all of our issued gears in rucksack. This walk was all ascent, ascent and ascent. After hill walk there was session for revision of knots. Later on that day, all of were allowed to go out for shopping for necessary equipments like sunglasses, sunscreen lotions, poncho etc.

Day 3 to Day 6
These four days we trekked to Tekhla rock climbing area which is around 8-9 km from institute as told. We carried all the issued load these 4 days.

Trek to Tekhla

I was told that few AMC batches used to camp in Tekhla for five days. Beware of leeches here. NIM has vast and beautiful area for rock climbing and it is far better than the rock climbing area of HMI in my opinion. We used to have our rock climbing lectures, demonstrations and practices here whole day. These tekhla days allowed us to learn and practice many techniques of rock craft.
These five days, we used to to start our trek early morning to Tekhla. When we reach there we do some stretching exercises and then there was breakfast. After breakfast we start our rock climbing lessons with our instructors at 9:30 AM. We get lunch at 1 PM in Tekhla itself and continued our training till 5 PM. We used to get back to our institute by bus in evening.

Day 7
On day 7 after morning P.T. we did some climbing on different indoor and outdoor artificial walls in the institute. It was relatively easier and a fun day for everybody.

Day 8

Tyrolean Traverse @ Asiganga river

It was river crossing practice day. We went to a nearby village by bus on the bank of Asi ganga river. Here we were taught to make and use tyrolean traverse. Later that day we were given time to try our snow boots and crampons so that we get it changed if they doesn't fit.


Day 9
This day, we left the NIM campus for first camp in Tela. This day we started our journey by bus from NIM campus early morning after offering prayers in the temple of NIM campus to Bukki which is on the way to Gangotri. During this bus journey, we could witness the aftermath of previous year Uttarakhand disaster. It took around 2 hours to reach Bukki by bus.

From Bukki, we'll be trekking through Dingad Valley, named so after a glacial stream Dingad (gad=stream)  originating from Dokrani Bamak (bamak = glacier)  which is our training area. The stream originating from the glacier's melting water later joins many other snow / ice melted streams and finally merges into Bhagirathi river near Bukki village. Bukki village is 2 km from the bus terminus situated on the right bank of Bhagirathi river. On way to Dokriani glacier, one has to walk 23 km from the road (Bukki village). After crossing the Bhagirathi river a footpath flows along the steep mountain slopes up to Tela camp (2500 m), from Tela to Gujjar hut a 12 km run along the Dingad stream is a route offered to cross the several up and down ridges, many samll and big streams and dense mixed forests of deodar, rhododendron (burans), oak, pine etc. provide an atmosphere of perfect peace and tranquility. Gujjar Hut (a summer camp of Gujjars with their cattles) is located at a height of 3500 m, just 5 km below the Dokriani glacier. Gujjar Hut is the gateway of the valley.

The valley has a gentle slope with different land features formed by the glacier and surrounded by snow-covered peaks. This place is good for camping and one can walk up to the glacier and adjoining areas and climb the small peaks. Only Gujjar huts and a base camp (near the glacier snout) of Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology, Dehradun lie on the way. The best season to visit is through out summer and autumn. Besides the above two glaciers, Kedar, Rudugaira and Jaonli are some other glaciers which are approachable by the same way.

We started our trek to Tela camping site (altitude 8200 ft. )from Bhuki around 10 AM.This trek is around 8 kms. This was decent trek through dense jungles and was not very tiring except the last few minutes which was long continuous ascent.  Daily treks to Tekhla had made us stronger. We reached Tel camp around 1:30 PM and after little cooling down stretching exercises we had our lunch prepared by NIM cooking staff. Later we pitched our tents and went for acclimatization walk to a nearby hill in the evening. It was a beautiful walk through jungle which has meadows and at the top there was beautiful view of surroundings. At Tel near our campsite there were few houses of Gujjars and they have cattles which were tied nearby. Here there is also a small tower installed by Wadia Institute, Dehradun for weather monitoring.

Day 10
This day we had this very long trek from Tel camp to Gujjar Hut (altitude 11200 ft.). It counts as toughest day so far. We started around 7:30 AM after cleaning Tel campsite and reached Gujjar Hut at 2:30 PM. From Gujjar hut, we started getting nice view of nearby peaks like Jaonli (6630 meters). The place Gujjar hut was given this name because of few huts of Gujjars nearby who stay here in summers. We went for our acclimatization walk to nearby lake Khera Tal (Serpent Lake) which is a small lake between a vast and very beautiful meadow. Vast ground surrounded by tall trees with an opens on one side for magnificent view of peaks Jaonli (6630 meters) and DKD-II (5670 meters). DKD-II is the peak which we hoped to climb as part of our height gain phase later in this course. Khera in local language means snake. There is a story about this lake and a snake living around it which was previously poisoning a nearby stream Hurra Nala (Nala = a stream )  and thereby causing deaths in the village which depended on it. There is also a temple nearby the lake. People of Bhuki village sometimes come here to offer prayers and stay here overnight. In Feb-April this whole area is covered with snow. We were told that in month of June, this valley is full of flowers and there are many butterflies around here.

Day 11

Base Camp

In morning at Gujjar Hut, we had a class of map reading and get to practice using GPS devices. Everybody was given three co-ordinates to point out on map and follow these points using GPS device. These points were on the way to NIM Base Camp (12300 ft.). Every rope moved ahead with their instructors to Base Camp with the routes set using three waypoints given. This trek is relatively small and is around 2.5 km. Treeline vanishes on the way and we could see only shrubs around there.
After reaching base camp, we pitched our tents and did some cleaning of the area, cut the grass etc. There was not much for the day.

Phase 2: Ice Craft

Day 12,13
From this day, our training of ice craft started. The Dokrani glacier is bit far from base camp. Seems

as if glacier has receded a lot. Groups barely found decent walls to practice. All of the ice was covered with moraine. We cleaned it up for practicing. Our instructor Subhash Sir found a decent wall to practice we practiced different climbing positions on ice and climbing using ice pitons etc.
In my opinion, NIM's ice craft area is much less in comparison of HMI. It may be the time, when NIM may have to shift the base camp further up to Advance Base Camp.

These two days. it was mostly revision of  ice craft taught in basic course. In the second half on the second day, we were involved in checking of tents, which we'll be carrying to advance base camp (ABC) be used in high altitude.

Day 14

Advance Base Camp

Today, we ferried load from base camp to advance base camp (13500 ft.). With fairly heavy load the trek was tiring and I was huffing and puffing on the way. It like the last flat piece of of very picturesque land in cirque ahead. The surroundings form an amphitheater of mountains which from north-east-south constitutes of Machha ki Dhar, Jaonli, Draupadi ka Daanda, Choro ki Dhar and Rakhua Top. We dumped all the load like food items, tents etc in a shelter made of rock and came back to the base camp. It felt like a long walk. Back in the base camp this day, we had a lecture on mountain terminology after lunch.


Day 15
We moved to ABC with our personal belongings. We were allowed to leave few of our things which we thought would not be required above in ABC and further.

Looking towards BC, from ABC

We reached ABC at 10:30 AM after leaving and wrapping up tents at base camp past 8 AM. After some stretching exercises, we started pitching our tents. We erected volleyball net and a stone shelter where kitchen staff could heat water for us. Everybody was entitled for one hot bottle of water every morning and evening for drinking purposes at base camp and advance base camp. It was a lot of fun playing volleyball at ABC in the surroundings it offer.

Dokrani glacier: Further ahead is our training area

Advance Ice Craft @ Dokrani Glacier

Day 16, 17
We started the day by marching up to upper part of Dokrani glacier. Most of the trek is on moraine and glacier.
Training area is not very far from the campsite and there are ample ice walls for all of us to practice. After demonstration of technique by our instructors, we practiced the same.
We learned few advanced ice climbing techniques. This includes two piton climbing, aid climbing on ice wall. In month of September, there wasn't much snow on these ice walls. Very soon gloves would get and dirty with fast melting ice and supra glacial moraine.

It was continuously hailing in the in the second half of the day. It started snowing heavily in the evening which lasted till late night.

Advance Ice craft Training

For the duration of our stay at base camp we took ropewise turns to prepare dinner our everybody, which was part of our training as told.

We also had a class on high altitude cooking with different kind of fuels and stoves.

Phase 3: Snow Craft

Day 18

Out tents in ABC in the morning after snow

Since our phases of rock and ice craft was over, it was turn of snow craft. In our time there wasn't much snow. It was decided to practice snow craft on thin layer of packed snow patch with elevation of arounf 60 to 70 on a ridge of Machha ki Dhar which had ice beneath. Few people including me found difficult to maintain balance and practice on this patch. I had a fall which I couldn't arrest with ice axe while practicing and twisted my ankle. It wasn't severe, but it got me limping. It snowed again later in the afternoon. This completes our training part.




Phase 4: Height Gain

Day 19
For our height gain we hoped to summit DKD-II if weather allowed. We were warned that if weather doesn't allow we may not be able to reach the summit and return halfway. Anyway at this we ferried load to our Camp 1 (15800 ft.) which was also our summit camp. Loads included high altitude tents butane gas cans, burners, technical gears and other eatables.  It was an arduous task to ascent on continuous ice and moraine. I had OTG (over the glass) snow goggles which were too foggy to see and made the trek difficult. I had to walk without snow goggles most of the time. After reaching there, we set up tents for kitchen and store room and dumped our loads. The camp 1 area is a cwm (pronounced coom). This is a relatively flat area completely on glacier and many crevasses around. We could see all kinds of features of ice which we were told around. Ice tables, serac, bergschrund, crevasses, overhanging glaciers. If we're facing towards east, we had DKD on our right, but summit wasn't visible from there. Jaonli was towards north or our left. Jaonli (6632 meters) seemed so close as if we could walk over the summit. But standard way to the Jaonli was from behind (relatively may be from north face). The glaciers from Jaonli and DKD meet here to form the Dokrani glacier (around 5 km long).
While returning from camp 1, weather got really bad. It was complete whiteout. We trekked back in continuous snowfall. Drenched in sweat from inside and wet from outside with snow and hail, we walked back to advance base camp. After seeing this weather I really saw the dwindling chance for the summit, as there was now a good chance that we may not be going for the summit. If the weather doesn't clear soon, our chance to summit DKD is going to be feeble. It snowed whole day. Windproofs were completely wet. I kept my half wet clothes etc in sleeping bag to keep them warm.

Day 20
We packed our bags early morning from ABC and did routine cleaning of tent area before leaving. We reached camp 1 around 10:30 AM and started pitching our tents on the glacier. There was some snow over the ice which we beat to make the area for tent flat. We were getting tired easily with heavy movement like lifting stones for preparing the camp and other staff tents, kitchen etc. We could hear the water flowing through the deep crevasses. There was hole dug in the ice which stored some melted water in the day which we used for cooking maggi for lunch and warming water. Each tent which accommodated some 5 people was given a butane stove for cooking. With tents facing to each other on the ice in a row, and everybody cooking outside; it looked like as if we've established a small market on the glacier. After this, few handpicked people (around 6 to 7) along with two instructors left for the recce and route opening for tomorrow's summit attempt. Following them, rest of us also left for making the moraine part of route a bit stable. We all made cairns and fixed loose rocks along the way in the evening. We were told that we'll have to wake up at 2 AM and leave for the summit attempt at 4 AM sharp. Anybody gets late will be left there only. It was freezing cold in the night inside the tent. There wasn't much space inside the tent and we kept our snow boots in the vestibule. Thinking of going to loo instilled fear. There wasn't much time to sleep. I was guessing the time between short naps. Our tent was continuously making flapping sounds in wind. In night we could hear continuous deep noises of glacier moving beneath us. I couldn't sleep in night. Sleeping bag got wet from one side.

Day 21

We woke up in hurry after 2 AM and prepared ourselves for summit attempt. Chilling wind was blowing as we equipped ourselves with the harness set and other technical gear. I kept the breakfast in the bag and left for the summit with everybody. It was dark and everybody was wearing torches over head. We started the ascent in the moraine spanning high up towards our way with the helps of cairns established last evening. Everybody was waling briskly as if there was a very narrow time window for the summit. We're told that if somebody gets too late he may have to return from there only. After completing the ascent on moraine we put on crampons to walk on the ice. It looked very beautiful to see these many people ascending through the icy ridge with head-torches in the night. Everybody was walking silently. The cold and the wind was making talking difficult. At dawn, we reached a relatively flat area full of snow from where we could the peak of DKD-II. Behind us we could see the peaks of Gangotri valley. It was a magnificent view with the rising sun.
Ahead of us ropes were being fixed by our ropemate Deepak Rana and our instructor Subhash Thakur. It was a steep climb with unfathomable snow. It was very difficult to walk on the steep ascent this much powdery snow.

We self anchored ourselves to the established fixed rope and started the ascent. Trying to move ahead one step was making slide down further. But somehow, I learned the trick to make proper steps and walk up. The sun was rising. There were few crevsses hidden in deep snow which opened up their faces with people moving over. Everybody was moving slow. At some point we had to go one by one. After more than an hour of steep climb on snow like quick sand I could see the last rope to the summit.

View from DKD-II

I reached there around 8:15 AM. Opening the route, Deepak and Subhash sir reached there around 7:45 am.We congratulated each other for our successfully summit. It was blissful moment. We could the surrounding peaks protruding upside from the quilt of clouds. Senior instructor Jagmohan Singh Rawat introduced us to the surrounding peaks. We could see Shrikanth, Bandarpoonch Range, Kala Nag, Rudragaira, G
angotri Range, Jaonli, Nanda Devi, Kedar Dome, Kedarnath Valley DKD-I. After that everybody got busy posing and clicking pictures. After some 15-20 mins, we started our descent. It was fairly difficult to descending in steps in such steep snow. When we climbed down the major part part, we were given few mins break for breakfast. There wasn't any break before that. Common equipments like ropes changed hands and we started climbing down with happiness on our faces. While we were climbing down we could see the basic course guys at our camp 1, who were there for there height gain phase. At cam 1, we were congratulated by the kitchen staff and Chief Instructor for our successful climb.  Everybody was completely exhausted after this arduous climb.After reaching I pulled out the packed breakfast and shared it with my ropemates. In our rope, I and one of my ropemate were little feverish and went back to sleep. Everybody was really happy that we'll  be going back to base camp tomorrow. Most of us were planning a grand party after this course.

Day 21
We wrapped up our camp 1 and cleaned up the tent area. Trekked back to base camp passing through advance base camp and depositing the technical and other stuff  issued for camp 1. At base camp, we were greeted by all the basic course instructors and basic course guys who were clapping for our us. They congratulated us for our successful summit. We pitched our tents at base camp and cleaned and dried wet equipments clothes etc.

Day 22
It was exam day. There were few objective and few short answer subjective questions. After that we were competing for our map reading exam. We're given 2 points to which we had to reach. We were mostly running as one point was at Gujjar Hut and second was little off on the way to ABC.

Day 23, 24
Trekking back first from BC to Tela and then Tela to Bhuki. We were all happy to see other people and civilization. A bus from NIM was waiting to take us to the institute. It was like 10 in the morning. Soon after reaching there most of us got busy with writing the expedition report which had to be submitted the next day. After bath and lunch in the institute we submitted our equipments. In evening, we were allowed to go to the market to get the expedition report printed.

Day 25 to end of course
We had graduation ceremony and there was a cultural event in which our course-mates   participated.

Basic Mountaineering Course, HMI (Himalayan Mountaineering Institute)

Himalayan Moutaineering Institute is one of the premier institutes in the field of

mountaineering in India. This is also the first mountaineering institute established in India. It was setup in 1954 by the first prime minister Pandit Jawahar Lal Neharu on proposal of Tenjing Norgay ( One of the First Everest Summiteer with Sir Edmund Hillary on 29th May 1953.) After the successful summit of the peak he wished to establish an institute to train the budding mountaineers which was accepted by the prime minister.The institute is located on Jawahar Parbat, Darjeeling, West Bengal.



Apart from this there are also other institutes which are famous which includes Nehru Institute of mountaineering, Uttar Kashi, Uttarakhand and Atal Bihari Vajpayee institute Of Mountaineering and Allied Sports , Manali, Himachal Pradesh.

H.M.I. offers Basic, Advance and Methods Of Instruction Course in the field of Mountaineering. These courses are held in the month of October, November, December, March, April and May. Being heavily subsidized, the fee charged is very nominal INR 4000 for Indian citizens and SAARC countries. It is USD 700 for foreign nationals. The fees includes the accommodation, fooding. Institute also provides you the equipments and the warm clothes for all courses. Duration for this basic course is 4 weeks.

Basic Mountaineering Course

I did my BMC in March '09. The course was divided into four phases :
(a) Acclimatisation & theoretical training in around Darjeeling -05days
(b) Trekking (approach to the base camp (14,600ft) and return) - 07days
(c) Field Training(above Base Camp) -14 days
(d) Administration and Graduation ceremony – 02 days.

Phase I : Acclimatisation & Theoretical Training

I arrived at HMI, Darjeeling (avg. altitude 7000 ft.) on 3rd of March '09, and was allotted a room which was constructed in the Swiss style and can accommodate 8 students. In the evening we were made aware of the rules and regulations of the institute. Our training was to be started from the next day with morning PT. We had to do the jogging in ascents and descents of Darjeeling for about 5 km and this will be our daily routine for the Phase I. After PT, students will have their breakfast and then we had classes of Rock Climbing (both practical and theory at the rock faces: Tenzing Rock, Gombu Rock, New Face) and sometimes on the artificial walls (Indoor and outdoor).

Theory classes also includes lectures on Knots, Ropes, Introduction and use of mountaineering equipments, Glaciers, Himalayas, Mountain Hazards. Equipments like harness set, carabiners, rope, warm clothes, rucksack, crampons, snow shoes, mittens, water bottle, Tiffin box etc. were allotted within few days. Students were randomly divided into different ropes(groups) of 6. Seniors(in my case military personnel) among us were made the rope leaders. My rope instructor was Kushang Sanghe Sherpa. Students were made to practice to trek for 2 -3 days with the load before going to Phase II. On the last day of Phase I, we were allowed to go outside the campus to buy some necessary things etc. like sunglasses, raincoats, etc.

Students coming to HMI : In my batch there were 66 people in which at least 25 of them were from military (Army, Navy and Air force) and most of remaining were from our North eastern part of India or Nepal. I was the only one from North. Many of the north eastern people pursue the course so as to get a job in this field.Phase II : Trekking (approach to the base camp t 14,600ft and return)We started to Yuksom (literal meaning: meeting place of three lamas) which is also the first capital of Sikkim, located at 5840 ft., with our Instructors by bus. Being at the head of the Khangchendzonga National Park and as the base camp for trekking to Mt. Khangchendzonga, we stayed there in tents and started our trek the next day. Entering into this region requires permission and other formalities.

Kitchen at Bakhim

 We started to trek early morning and reached Bakhim (literal meaning : home of bamboos, at 9000 ft.) at about 2 o'clock
and this was about 13 kms.  
By the time we reached Bakhim, HMI mess staff were already there and our meal was ready. After having food, we rested there in forest rest house. Next day we were taken to a small village Tsokha(about 11000 ft. ) for acclimatisation. They say that if you work at higher altitudes and sleep at lower altitude you will acclimatise well and fast. There are some small shops where you can buy something to eat like chips, biscuits, cold drink, tea etc. 
After staying there for a while, we returned back to Bakhim and next morning we moved to Dzongari (literal meaning: meeting place of man and mountain gods, at 13220 ft.) via Phedang which was about 11 kms.

We pitched our tents to stay there in the night while our female course mates were made to stay in the trekking huts. From here we started feeling the effect of high altitudes. Trees are now converted to bushes and some people started getting headaches including me, first sign of AMS (acute mountain sickness). The only remedy was to drink more and more water since we dehydrate much at high altitudes. In the evening we went for acclimatisation in surrounding hills ropewise with our rope instructors where we were introduced to surrounding peaks and places. There was a frozen stream of water nearby which gets covered with ice at night so we didn't have water problems. The mess crew always reaches in advance to provide meal and tea at time. Next day we started our final trek of 13 kms. via Dzongari Pass to Chaurikhang (grazing place of Yaks, 14600 ft.), HMI Base Camp. In between we were provided tea at Beak Bari (a place 3 kms before Base Camp) which is all the way down (more than 1000 ft.) from Dzongari pass which is itself at 14600ft. Here one can feel the effect of low atmospheric pressure. Another trek route shoots from Dzongari pass which goes to Goecha La (more 17000 ft.) near the feet of Kanchendzonga.

MI Room @ HMI Base Camp

At base camp we stayed in the hut which was gifted to HMI by TISCO. MOI (method of instruction) students were staying in the tents. There was a separate hut for girls. We found our allotted space in the hut and laid down our mats for the next 15 days training.Phase III : Field Training(above Base Camp) -14 days

When we reached Base Camp, the weather was clear and there was no sign of snowfall but it started snowing just after an hour. We were enjoying the snow and meal was ready by 1600 hrs. We were intimated about the rules and regulations at the base camp same day and told to rest since we were going to have busy and tough schedule starting from tomorrow.

Trainees at Rathong glacier

Training area

Next day we have to go to Rathong glacier which was approx 4 km from the base camp for our training on ice.

 We started at 0800 hrs. On the first day we were introduced to the surroundings and nearby peaks etc. and how to walk with crampons by our rope instructors. It started snowing heavily while we were practicing. This kind of weather pattern continued for next 15 days. Snowing starts around 1000 hrs and continued till late night. For the next 15 days, all we can see was the whiteness everywhere and inches of snow. Weather was clear only in the early morning and it was fascinating to see the golden sunrise in those snow covered mountains. Snow when pressed between ground and shoes (Koflach snow boots) becomes very slippery making walking very difficult. You have to be very careful while walking on snow especially on the glacier moraine (mass of staggered rocks and boulders)  

Training at ice wall

We were provided with tea biscuit after the training on the glacier (thanks to the mess crew). We returned to the base camp in that heavy snow fall. It was hazy everywhere. Many people were frightened to see such a view as there was a long slippery way to go. We were told that such are the conditions one might face during any expedition, so have to get acquainted with it and so we did. Red flags were used to mark the way for the trainees to the base camp which were picked back while returning. After return to the camp, we had our meal and after a little rest we had a theory class about the equipments used. These were few new equipments which are used in snow and ice craft. Live demos of usage of these equipments were given by our instructors in some of the theory classes.  This was our routine for the next 15 days.

The water there was ice cold and was stored in tanks for washing purposes which freeze in the nights. You have to break the thick layer of ice to get the water from tank. We were provided with 3 ltrs. of hot drinking water every day apart from several other hot drinks to prevent the dehydration.

For the next days we were trained in Ice climbing with the help of crampons and ice axe, Rescue techniques( self-arrest with ice axe, rescue with pulleys), Knots, use of equipments, rappelling, Jumaring, and many more. There were theory classes on Mountain hazards and prevention (by the Institute doctor ). During the course many of our course mates caught AMS, some injured their ankles and were sent back.

Our Rope at the summit of Mt. Renok

 On the second last day of the base camp we went for the altitude gain to a nearby peak (Mt. Renok) which was about 15, 500 ft... This was an amazing and thrilling experience. We didn't stay there much because there was not much space on the peak and we have to leave the way for other ropes.

On this day we also had our special meal (which is also called badakhana, a military ritual which I've seen being observed in NCC camps before) .

Some slow walkers were told to start back a day before since they may take 3 days to cover the return trek. We were told that they will join us in Yuksom. Trekking back also was not easy as the route was very slippery and we were falling all the way. But we were very happy like we were being freed from jail. The snow ended after Phedang (a place between Dzongari and Bakhim ) The people were filled with energy and they were moving very fast. After being at the altitude of base camp for so many days the return trek felt so easy that some of us were literally running. We covered the return trek in 2 days. On the first day we trekked till Bakhim which was of 2 days while coming. Next day early morning we joined them in Yoksum. We returned to HMI by bus from Yoksum.

Phase IV : Administration and Graduation ceremony – 02 days

After returning to the campus we had our written examination which was very easy for literates. There were few people who were not well versed with reading and writing, though very good at climbing. The written examination was followed by the rope wise interview with the principal. We were asked about the experience we had and our feedback and suggestions we wanted to offer about the course and the facilities provided. Also, there were individual competitions like sports climbing(on an artificial wall ) and cross country.

Coursemates graduated from HMI

Graduation ceremony was held on the last day and we were awarded HMI batches by the Nawang Gombu Sherpa ( several times Everest summiteer ) for the successful completion of our course. We were told that our certificates will be sent within few months along with our grades. It is important to have A grade to get recommended for Advance Mountaineering Course. For gallery of pictures of the 270th BMC.

Update: In 2014, I got chance to go for AMC (Advance Mountaineering Course) from NIM, Uttarkashi. Here is what I experienced.

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